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magic Nine weeks ago, in one of the first days of class at the Art Institute, the chef-instructor was giving a knife skills demonstration. Explaining how to properly grip the knife, and use your other hand to guide the blade, he began chopping a large onion. In seconds, the onion was gone. In it's place was something else. Magic. Now, I've probably chopped hundreds, if not a few thousand onions. Cutting up raw ingredients is just something most of us take for granted I think (regardless of how much you like or dislike cooking). So on some level, this demonstration was no big deal. But on the other hand, I really thought about that onion for a while. How the simple act of chopping it, of breaking it down, meant that it was no longer an onion — it had become an ingredient, the in-between form of Something Yet To Be. In many ways, completely transformed. I think this is what has me so fascinated by cooking these days: The ability to take that onion, and several other raw and basic ingredients, and to transform them. To take chicken stock and vegetables to make soup; chicken bones and water to make stock; XX and YY to make ZZ. And the more basic you begin with, the more essential you end up with, the more incredible this feat of transformation seems.
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I made pasta from scratch the other day. I started with two eggs, some flour, salt and oil. I combined it all, rolled it out, cut it into thin circles and stuffed it with crab meat and vegetables. I dropped one batch into boiling water, and the result was ravioli. And then I pan-fried a second batch in butter and basil, and the result was different - empanadas. Pasta is one of those things I don't think much about. Either fresh in a restaurant or dried from a box, it's less the sum of its parts and simply Pasta, capital P, a thing that is always there. And yet now I realize that it isn't. Now I've seen the trick, glanced behind the curtain and understand the transformation a little better. But understanding the process — clumsily doing it once — is also a far cry from real sorcery. What gets me most about the creation of staples like breads and stocks and pastas and delicate soups, is that they are so deceptively simple. A few ingredients and a recipe can lay out a roadmap for me, but I could probably spend a lifetime trying to get from proficient to perfect.
— Robert All Images Copyright 2006 -- Robert Walton |